Before dismantling the ECU to do other deep testing & repair of the internal circuits on-bench, lets start with the obvious on-board troubleshooting to establish all the power inputs to the ECU!
Kabla ya kuhangaika kubomoa ECU ili ufanye uchunguzi au na urekebishaji wa saketi za ndani kwenye benchi, wacha tuanze na utatuzi njia zote za umeme wa kwenda kwenye ECU!
Make sure on testing, the battery on that vehicle is of optimum voltage, depending! Like when the Engine is NOT running, for small vehicles atleast 12.5V, and or 25V for heavy vehicles!
Hakikisha ukipima betri kwenye gari hilo lina volti ya kutosha! Kulingana aina ya gari, lakini , kwa magari madogo angalau 12.5V, na au 25V kwa magari makubwa!
YOU MAY WATCH THIS VIDEO HERE< otherwise ukitaka eendlea kusoma tu!
Don’t assume, test all the ground/Negative, direct & indirect connections of the battery to the ECU via the chassis!
Husidhani, hakikisha umekagua, kupima miunganisho yote ya ground, yaani njia negativu ya betri ya kwenda ECU! Kuna njia za moja kwa moja, na zinazopitia chasi (bode au mwili wa gari)! 
On in some vehicles, these could be the Ground Terminals of the ECU
Katika baadhi ya magari, haya mashikisho ya kufunga ECU yanaweza kuwa njia ya moto wa groundi au negativu ya betri kufika kwa ECU
Otherwise check the ECU pinout for the Ground terminals or pinouts, make sure all link up to the battery’s ground terminal!
Vinginevyo, angalia mchoro au pinout ya ECU utambue Ground ni ipi, then uhakikishe zote zimeunganishwa kwenye groundi au negativu ya betri!
And be carefull so many ECU could be having more many Ground or negative terminals, make sure all connections are proper!
Na kuwa mwangalifu, maaana ECU nyingi zinakuwa na groundi au negative nyingi! So, hakikisha zote zimemeunganishwa poa!
www.5021.tips/ujanja/ecu
Infact, pins 4 & 5 on the OBD connector is another way to test!
Uchawi mwingine, ni kwenye lile boya unapoweka diagnosis mashine, pin ya 4 na 5 ni ground, moja kutokea ECU na ingine betri!
Wahtever the case, make sure the battery’s negative terminal is free of any…..
Vyovyote iwavyo, hakikisha terminal ya betri haina chochote, uchafu, oili, nk!
Note the Terminals on the OBD socket!
Kumbuka kuelewa bla blaa za hii tundu la OBD!
Remember, ECU pinouts data is everywhere on google, Yandex, etc, so you get to know which pin is for who which what on the ECU!
We always pile up all ECU pinouts on this link below
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Usipate mawazo ya wapi utapata kujua kazi ya kila pin iliopo ECU, hiyo link hapo juu ndo tumekuwekea hizo PINOUTS za kila gari!
Kwanza, on most or all ECU’s, there is a wire that requires “battery constant power” even when IGINITON SWITCH is OFF!
This enables the ECU to keep powering the memories that store vital information about the vehicle’s engine and other systems, and that’s why on some vehicles when you disconnect the battery, the vehicle behaves strange!
Or why if when a vehicle develops weird behaviors, to reset it back to normal, it’s recommended to disconnect the battery for some time to drain all the capacitors keeping charge!
Alafu, kwenye ECU nyingi au zote, kuna waya inaoitwa “battery constant power line” au waya inayohitaji kubeba na kupeleka moto au umeme kwenye ECU, wakati wote hata kwa IGINITON OFF!
Hii ni kuiwezesha ECU kuendelea kuimarisha, kuhifadhi, kumbukumbu zinazohifadhi taarifa muhimu kuhusu mazoea ya mifumo mbali mbali kwenye ya gari, kama ingini, usalama, nk!
Na, ndiyo maana kwenye baadhi ya magari unapoondoa betri, gari inafanya vya ajabu tofauti, ata zingine zinagoma kuwaka!
Au, infact hii kwa nini ikiwa gari linapokuwa na tabia zisizo za kawaida, ili kuirejesha katika hali ya kawaida, inashauriwa kukaata au kutoa betri kwa muda ili kuondoa vidhibiti vyote vinavyoweka chaji au umeme!
www.5021.tips/ujanja/ecu
The voltage between the ground & this constant battery voltage should better give you the exact voltage between the vehicle’s battery terminals!
That constant Battery voltage is always, usually via a FUSE before reaching the ECU! So, should you NOT be getting this voltage, take in count this FUSE!
Kwa kupima umeme ilipo kwenye hii waya, lazima iwe sawa sawa na umeme wa betri!
Ukiona hakuna, lazima ukumbuke kuna FYUZI (fuse)
And the other ‘ujanja’ is to measure the resistance of each respective wire, between the battery terminals and connection points to the ECU! The resistance better be almost next to Zero, otherwise….
Ujanja ingine ni kupima REZISITENSI (resistance) ya kila waya, katoka kwa betri na mpaka hapo zinapoingilia kwenye ECU!
Uzuri sana zaidi ukipata ‘homuzi’ (ohms) sifuri, uzuri ni ukipata ohms kasoro kidogo kwa sifuri!
Ukipata ohms kubwa, ina maana kuna sehemu hiyo waya inagusa au… chunguza niaje!
OR, further better, do a voltage drop test of on those wires! Measure the battery voltage, and voltage between these wire at the ECU connection points!
The voltage had better been the same or at worst similar with a tiny voltage difference of almost Zero!
Should the voltage drop be extreme, then do the needful, check check the wiring!
Kuna uchawi unaitwa “VOLTAGE DROP TEST”! Sii hii waya ya “constant battery power” bla blaa inatoka moja kwa moja betri, alafu na hiyo ya groundi au negative!
Sasa unapima umeme uliopo betri, alafu unaulinganisha kwa au na umeme uliopo kwenye hizi waya huku upande wa ECU!
Ukiona kuna upungufu mkubwa, then kuna vurugu sehemu, nk! Chunguza kwa makini kabla kusingizia ECU ndo mbovu!
This is all when the ECU is in STAND-BY MODE, Ignition OFF, vehicle is parked, just sleeping!
Hapo juu, kila tumefanya wakati IGNITION iko OFF, hakuna ufunguo!
www.5021.tips/ujanja/ecu
When turn the key to IGNITION ON, the battery Positive line is relayed to the ECU, via a fuse! On some vehicles this IGNTION ON completely, fully powers the ECU!
Unapozungusha ufunguo kuweka IGNITION ON, hapa ndo unaamusha ECU kwa kuipatia umeme kupitia njia ingine ya kutokea betri, obviously kwa kupitia fuse!
Kwenye baadhi ya magari, IGNITION ON pekee ndo inaiwezesha ECU kikamilifu, na huu umeme kwenye hii waya ndo unaofanya ile bla blaa ya ECU relay! 
Remember there is a Relay switch & fuse!
When testing for this line’s voltage, the voltage between this wire and ground, better give you the vehicles’s battery voltage, with IGNITION ON!
And so should the resistance of this wire at the ECU connector point and battery terminal, give you almost zero resistance
Kumbuka kuna swichi ya Relay na fuse! Unapochunguza umeme kwenye hii waya, kwenye SWITCH ON, lazima upate umeme wa betri! 
On updated systems, IGNITION ON creates the ignition switch ON signal, and when this signal is input into the ECU, the ECU, in-turn, turns ON the main ECU control relay.
Kwenye mifumo mingine, huu umeme wa IGNITION ON unazalisha siginal kutoka ECU kwenda kwa ‘Rwile’, yaaani Relay, amabao inaitwa ECU relay, ambapo umeme wa rasmi kuwezesha ECU kikamilifu!
That wire from the ECU to the main ECU relay should be ground, connecting to with other ground wires or body!
Waya hiyo ya ‘IGNITION ON signal’ kutoka kwa ECU hadi ECU relay, inapaswa kuwa ya ground au negative, so wakati unakagua ukumbuke ili!
When the engine control relay is turned ON, the battery power will be supplied from the ECU control relay to every all over the ECU, sensors and actuators.
Sasa, huu moto au umeme kutoka kwenye hii ECU relay, pamoja na kuwezesha ECU kikamilifu, ata hizo sensa (sensors) na actuator zinazohitaji umeme kufanya kazi, zitakuwa zinapata kutoka kwenye hii wire!
On testing this line, it’s voltage with the ground should be equal to battery voltage
Unapopima au kuchunguza umeme kwenye hii waya, voltage yake na ground au negative inapaswa kuwa sawa na voltage ya betri! Alafu ile blaa blaa ya resistance nayo iwe bora sifuli!
www.5021.tips/ujanja/ecu
This general or full powering of the ECU even switches on the CAN line communications to from with other ECU’s, including the OBD socket to do DIAGNOSIS!
ECU ikipata umeme rasmi, hapo ndo ata zile CAN kuwasiliana ECU zingine zitaanza, pamoja na ile tundu la OBD unapoingiza Diagnosis Mashine! 
As we earlier discussed, you measure the frequency signals on these CAN wires
Congs, We have now delivered 12.6V or 24.6V from the battery to the ECU, but the thing (ECU) operates at on with low 5V, 3.5V and other lower DC voltages that fit in well with electronic computer logic voltages.
Hongera, Sasa tumefaulu kupeleka au kuchunguza ufikaji wa umeme, 12.6V au 24.6V, kutoka kwa betri hadi kwa ECU, lakini hii kitu (ECU) inafanya kazi kwa kutumia 5V, 3.5V na voltages zingine za chini za DC ambazo zinalingana voltages za mantiki ya digitali au kompyuta kielektroniki.
NEXT, lets deep into that magic of WHAT WHY HOW this battery voltaged is safely harnessed into proper voltages for the different blocks of the ECU!
HAPA UJANJA tu!
INAYOFUATA, tuaanze kuingia ndani mwa ECU upande wa power management, tuone huo uchawi wa namna voltage ya betri na ukubwa wa voltage wake, jinsi inaunganishwa kwa usalama katika viwango sahihi vya vizuizi tofauti vya ECU! HAPA UCHAWI tu!
We deep into those ECU power modules, how they work, testing, if faulty, how to resource & replace any spares!
Tunazingatia sana moduli hizo za power ndani mwa ECU, jinsi zinavyofanya kazi, kupimwa, ikiwa ni mbaya, jinsi ya kupata ingine inaoingiliana, na kuzibadilisha baada ya kugunduwa ndo yenyewe inaosababisha ECU kuwa mbovu!
www.5021.tips/ujanja/ecu
