You know combustion engine (X) used in vehicles😉?How it works, insha’Allah😳!
Whatever magic that happens, rotates the tyres(T) to move the vehicle👩🦽!
Imagine, instead, just put a motor (M) to rotate the tyre🤷♀️!There a billion reasons why (then) to just use a motor (M) to rotate the tyre (T) was illusional😉!Infrastructure, the roads being bad!
The technology was “bad”, it could not offer the range, speed, affordability, maneuverability that the usual internal combustion Engine offered!The motor technology would be adapted to just compliment the IC-engine🧘♂️!
That’s the HYBRID nonsense!
A hybrid drivetrain combines (E) a conventional Internal Combustion Engine (IC-engine) with (M) an electric motor to optimize fuel efficiency and performance🧬!There are different HYBRID configurations,
how motor (M) & IC-engine (E) compliment each other✌!
First🤔try to imagine our Motor(M) and IC-engine(E)🧐!Continue imagining some ‘special something‘ used in hybrid vehicles to manage power distribution between an IC-engine (E) and electric motor/generators (M)😎!
This ‘special something‘ is known as the PSD, which means a power split device (PSD) that enables seamless switching between (M) and (E) or both🏋️♂️!
Insha’Allah,
may these words not confuse You🚧
MHEV , HEV, PHEV, REX, EREV, SOZI
MHEV
(Mild Hybrid Electric Vehicle)
A mild hybrid is a type of hybrid vehicle that uses a small electric motor to assist an internal combustion engine (ICE)🦽!
A small electric generator is installed in place of a traditional starter motor and alternator😉.
This allows fuel-intensive activities, like rapid acceleration or restarting after a stop, to be supported by power from the generator🏋️♂️!
The electric motor is NOT connected anywhere to directly (solely) rotate tyre (T)!
Using this illustration to unconfuse & confuse You with these other terms, HEV, PHEV, REX, EREV, SOZI
HEV
(Hybrid Electric Vehicle)
This a full Hybrid! Both the IC-engine (E) and Motor (M) can, each, solely or together, rotate (T) tyres to drive the vehicle🦽!
The IC-engine could be moving the vehicle alone, while charging the Motor’s HV-battery🤷♂️!
As long as the battery has optimum ‘juice’, the motor then solely drives the vehicle👩🦽!Just like You would connect batteries,
in series or parallel🚧,Whenever necessary to maximize efficiency and performance,
like during Heavy acceleration, climbing hills, or high-load conditions, both the IC-engine & Motor could team up to move the vehicle👩🦽!
PHEV
(Plug–in Hybrid Electric Vehicle)
This type of hybrid, PHEV, just has a larger battery than standard hybrids (HEV)! PHEV allow for more of pure electric driving🧐! Battery (B) is larger, keeps more ‘juice’ to enable motor (M) drive the vehicle for longer🚙!PHEVs must be plugged in to an external power source to maximize efficiency👌! PHEVs automatically manage power, prioritize electric mode until the battery is low, then seamlessly switch to hybrid mode (IC-engine + electric)👩🦽!
EREV
(Extended–Range Electric Vehicle)
A type of battery-electric vehicle (BEV) that uses a small internal combustion engine solely as an onboard generator to recharge the battery🏋️♂️!
The small IC-engine never drives the wheels directly🤷♀️!REx
(Range Extender)
“Rex” (or REx) is simply the abbreviation for the “Range Extender” engine/generator unit itself😜!This EREV is equipped with a,
small, auxiliary IC-engine that acts solely as a generator to recharge the battery while driving👩🦽! Unlike traditional plug-in hybrids, the REx engine never drives the wheels directly; it only powers an electric generator, eliminating range anxiety while keeping the vehicle in electric-only mode🔌!
Batteries (B) & (2B)
Know that there are different Battery technologies, like of Lithium-ion (Li-ion), Nickel-Metal Hydride (NiMH), Lead-Acid, Sodium-ion, solid-state, Sozion, etc😜, all offer varying energy densities and performance levels✌!
How the batteries work & everything, insha’Allah😜!
ClickHere …for that setup with sensors, ECU, actuators, etc! How they work, testing, troubleshooting, etc🩺!
LOW–voltage battery (2B)
Besides the high-voltage battery (B) to run the motor (M), a Hybrid vehicle ‘could’ have some low–voltage battery (2B) that powers low–voltage electronics, such as lights, infotainment, dashboard displays, and certain sensors📴!
Its most critical function is to.. ..activate the high–voltage relay system and control modules.. …that allow the high-voltage battery to start, then propel the vehicle👩🦽!
📌Don’t forget this LOW-voltage battery in a Hybrid📌
🍺At start-up, it initializes the computer systems and closes the relays (main contactors) that connect the high-voltage battery to the drivetrain👌!
🍻It powers accessories, lights, radio, windows, climate control like when the main system is in “Ready” mode😎!
🍺🍻It’s used for Passive Safety/Security, like to operate the locks, alarm, and key fob sensors , etc!
Yes, it supports the management and monitoring of the main high-voltage battery🤷♂️!
Use the same ‘ujanja’ about relays!
ClickHere …for that setup with sensors, ECU, actuators, etc! How they work, testing, troubleshooting, etc🩺!
Be a ‘mjanja’ while troubleshooting these relays🤪!
Remember🥂
📌Unlike conventional cars, the LOW–voltage battery in a hybrid does not need to turn over a starter motor, allowing it to be smaller, although it still serves the same basic activation functions🧘♂️!
📌Instead of an alternator, the LOW–voltage battery is charged by the HIGH–voltage battery through a DC-DC converter🔌!
📌The LOW–voltage battery can still go dead if the vehicle sits for a long time, preventing the high-voltage system from waking up, seen🤔?
HIGH–voltage battery (B)
Remember, there’s different Battery technolgy👌!
Whichever technology a hybrid vehicle manufacturer finds as suitable, they…
…they produce several cells (tiny batteries)
These tiny (B0) batteries (cells) are then connected together to form amodule (B1), which many modules are also further stacked to form that (B2) stack😜🤪these stacks then form HIGH–voltage (B) battery😁😁!
ClickHere …for that setup with sensors, ECU, actuators, etc! How they work, testing, troubleshooting, etc🩺!
I’m sure the nonsense of a batteries’ parallel, serial connections makes sense to You🩺!
I pray, insha’Allah, as You interrogate🩺whatever nonsense could be with the battery, you follow up whatever connections are, up to as kernel as the cells’ connections🧷!
Through inlets/outlets (O) whatever coolant is circulated into around the battery packs🍻🩺!
As You interrogate🩺 whatever nonsense be with the battery, be ready to deal with temperature sensors!
There could be several Temperature Sensors, per cell, per module, per stack, or some
general, overall battery temperature sensors!If you’re interested in some nonsense about Temperature sensors‘ parameters🩺
Obviously, the current, voltage, of the HV battery must be monitored🤷♂️!
Just be open-minded, depending on the Battery’s complexity, the monitoring could be per, cell, module, stack, or general Battery🤷♂️! If you’re not sure how to test, where to test, what to test, when to test, why to…
ClickHere …for that setup with sensors, ECU, actuators, etc! How they work, testing, troubleshooting, etc🩺!
Whatever monitored parameters,
current, voltage, temperature, sozi, is reported to the Battery’s centralElectronic Control Unit (ECU)💻! There could be some LOCAL electronic control units, per cell, per module, per stack, depending on how complicated the HV-battery could be, insha’Allah☝!The HV–Battery’s ECU, shares the, Temperature, Current, Voltage, and other parameters with other control units including the, DISPLAY and INVERTER / CONVERTER🥂!
📌The HV–Battery‘s ECUuses the parameters to manage the battery‘s modules & stacks, switch them ON or OFF whenever necessary🤷♂️!
📌That State of Charge (SoC) blaa bla is like the ‘fuel gauge’, it indicates the HV–battery’s current energy level🩺!
📌State of Health (SoH) is the measure of the HV–battery‘s long–term condition and capacity degradation compared to when it was new😉!
SoC is a short-term, always variable measurement (current charge),
whereas, SoH is a long-term, irreversible metric representing battery aging🦽!
A hybrid battery disconnect plug (or service plug🔌switch) is some safety sh*t used to isolate the high–voltage battery from the rest of the vehicle system, crucial for safe servicing,repairs🩺!
Typically, on most hybrid vehicles, this plug is of orange color,
and usually, located under the rear seat or trunk/boot area🧐!
This sh*t must be removed and secured, then You drink a 🍺as You wait sh*t to discharge, before working on high-voltage components😜😁!
INVERTER / CONVERTER (Z)
Remember, the electric motor (M) used use to turn tyre (T) is a AC motor, using Alternating Current🔌!
Insha’Allah, for whatever reasons why the AC–motor is preferable for use in Hybrid‘s🤷♂️!
For example, AC motors are more efficient, durable, and capable of generating high torque over a wide speed range compared to DC motors🤷♂️!
In other words, AC motors produce high, immediate torque and manage the variable power demands of driving compared to DC alternatives😎!
ClickHere …for that setup with sensors, ECU, actuators, etc! How they work, testing, troubleshooting, etc🩺!
Our HV–battery(B) stores DC power!
So the power inverter (Z) converts the DC power to AC power, for the efficient motor (M) operation🔌!
Sasa, before We dismantle (Z) the Inverter / Converter‘s internal components, for it’s reverse function, this is what happens🤪😜 in reverse!
When the driver lifts off the accelerator or presses the brake pedal, the same or other dedicated electric motor (G) reverses function, acting as a generator (G)😲!
This process creates some magnetic drag, which slows the vehicle down🏋️♂️!
All the nonsense about motors,
ClickHere …for that setup with sensors, ECU, actuators, etc! How they work, testing, troubleshooting, etc🩺!
The inverter / converter (Z) is vital for controlling AC motor speeds and converting DC battery power, which requires it to be located somewhere within the high–voltage system loop🧘♂️!
Even if🤔, …many hybrid vehicles house the inverter (Z) converter under the hood (bonnet) for whatever reasons including efficient cooling and proximity to the motor,
..this thing (Z) can be located in other locations depending on the manufacturer and vehicle design, hakuna matata🤷♀️!
These things (Z) inverters don’t all look like the same, they just have have a standard (same) functions‘ setup🩺!
Insha’Allah, wherever You find it located🤷♂️;
📌Towards the rear of the vehicle, near the high-voltage battery pack🧐!
📌Integrated, ama, mounted directly on top of or next to the transaxle to reduce high-voltage cabling length🔌!
Sh*t could be under the Vehicle as to manage space in the engine bay🤷♂️!
In fact, in some specific models or custom applications (like campers), the inverter/converter may be located in the trunk or behind interior panels😜!
Lets categorize this thing (Z) then narrate it section by section, bomboclat😁😁!
INVERTER / CONVETER COOLING‘s(O) Whatever magic the converter / inverter does, involves heat generation, and so is why there entry points (O) to circulate whatever coolant🍻🍺!The Temperature of the inverter (Z) converter has to be monitored, so don’t forget considering 🩺whatever Temperature sensor👌!
If you’re interested in some nonsense about Temperature sensors‘ parameters🩺
Dismantling this thing (Z) with the upper half of the housing removed and placed beside it🧐!
Expect the circuit board to be multilayered with; power regulation electronics, MG microprocessors, a boost converter microprocessor, integrated circuits (ICs) for MG speed/position detection, hardware for vehicle communication, voltage Temperature current measurements, safety interlock devices, and so much other nonsense😁😜!
There could be hardware to prevent faults and overlapping, as well as voltage, current, and temperature sensing circuitry for each insulated-gate bipolar transistor (IGBT)😲!
Expect to deal 🩺with controller and driver circuitry for DC–DC converters and inverters😎!You will see such DC, motor, and generator connection terminals🤷♀️!
There is that compartment containing compressor inverter and 12V DC-DC converter👌!
Some sh*t be containing inductor, capacitors, and dc-dc converter😁😜!
DON’T BE SCARED😜😁🤪!
While troubleshooting these circuit boards, use the similar ‘ujanja’ as we used for ECU’s🤷♀️!
Don’t forget about the whatever capacitors that attenuate voltage transients and whatever surges associated with the build-up and collapse of the energy stored in the the inductors!
For example, the large, heavy capacitor is crucial for stabilizing electrical power, filtering noise, and managing high-demand loads📚!
In fact, it is a temporary energy reservoir to bridge the gap between DC sources (solar/battery) and AC output🤷♂️!
There are those other capacitors, like in that nonsense whereby as the duty cycle is varied, the output voltage of the inductor also varies stupidly🤪😜😁!
Sasa, due to these inherent voltage ripples and obviously (but potentially) High Voltages produced by the collapsing inductor field🧐!
Naam, You see how these capacitors serve to stabilize the battery voltage and DC–link voltage as well as protect (Z) devices from potential over-voltage conditions🤷♂️!
There those Boost converter modules😲!
DON’T BE SCARED😜😁🤪!
While troubleshooting these circuit boards, use the similar ‘ujanja’ as we used for ECU’s🤷♀️!
Kindly, don’t just cram these setups😜🤪😁! These things vary with different hybrid vehicles, this 5021tips nonsense isjust giving You some perspective of ‘wah gwaan’, seen🤔? 😜🤪😁😜 Let me even stop here,
NOT to confuse You further😜😁!
There is this book here about if you’re interested in going through all the deep deep details of about the hybrid converters / inverters🤷♀️!
Otherwise such writings could also be youseful, jazaka’Allah✌
Hybrid Vehicle Powertrain Systems combine conventional powertrain components, an internal combustion engine and transmission, with new electric components, electric motor, power electronics and high voltage energy storage, such as a battery.
So this from TOYOTA engineeris to help you know how to perform the necessary maintenance, service, and repair procedureson hybrid cars!
Note📌
This is NOT about Engine (nor complete vehicle) immobilization👌! Although some component protection nonsense could ‘kinda’ immobilize the vehicle🤪!
These (S,O,Z) are the same, but just look similar😉! If truck (S) has a problem🩺,
You could ‘Chaga‘ 🤐 ‘Kikuyu‘ a spare part off, from (O and or Z) can 🩺repair (S)🤷♀️!
😜By the way📚,
‘Chaga‘ and ‘Kikuyu‘ are technical words for the pseudopseudohypoparathyroidism that causes pneumonoultramicroscopicsilicovolcanoconiosis of having longer hands😂🤣 that reach beyond limits🤐!
Any way, because(S, O, Z) are the same, a part from either can be used on either (S, O, Z)🤷♀️!Component protection (or security) is to prevent,
or control, any uncontrollable (Chaga, Kikuyu) moving of parts from either (S, O, Z)🚧!
DotDNA 🧬data😎
Continue to imagine✌!
To control (prevent) any of these trucks’ parts from being freely moved👌,For example, Truck (S)👇!Spray Truck (S) with ‘Baganda‘ witchcraft water😲!
Every part on truck (S) sprayed with ‘Baganda‘😳!This ‘Baganda‘ witchcraft water is the; DotDNA 🧬data😎!
DotDNA🧬 data is an advanced asset identification systemusing microscopic, uniquely 💻coded polyester dots mixed in some clear adhesive with a UV marker😲!
When applied to items, for example, our truck (S),
this DotDNA🧬data is some invisible, encrypted dots!
You can’t just see these dotswith Your naked eyes,
or may be use some kind-of magnifying 🔍anything!But even if You see these dots’ (data)🤐,This DotDNA🧬data is registered to a secure database, to match with the registered owner’s information🤠!
Like, if (S) suspects (Z) to have stolen it’s part😜!
Whatever DotDNA🧬data scanning tool, is taken to scan (Z), on that suspected, stolen part👌!You see how this DotDNA🧬data ‘Baganda‘ witchcraft allows to easily identify and recover stolen goods, significantly reducing ‘Chaga‘ and ‘Kikuyu‘ pseudopseudohypoparathyroidism that causes pneumonoultramicroscopicsilicovolcanoconiosis of having longer hands😂🤣 that reach beyond limits🤐!
See🤔? This passive anti-theft system may NOT immobilize the Engine, but it deters vehicle theft, and aids in the recovery of stolen parts🤷♂️!
For Components protection,
Before, We poured (used) sprayed) liquid data😎!
Now, We use digital Data🤪!
Start imagine the random electronics in a vehicle😉!
Still, imagine random vehicle’s control system📌!
The Control electronics tend to have some central control modulelinking, connecting with other electronics👌!
For example;
👇Here, its module (R) that is mostly central 😉!
👇Here, its module (L) that is central to most😎!
👇Here, its (D) module that is central, coordinating🩺! Please don’t think, don’t imagine, about the usual Key’s Engine Immobilizer system🤐!
Just imagine random electronics in a vehicle🤪!
You know EEPROMs do the digital data in Electronics!Remember our vehicles (S, O, Z)🤔?
Put a chip (EEPROM) in every component needed to be secured🤷♂️!
EEPROM has specific digital data of each truck🤷♂️!Remember, these electronics have a central module (D) that is coordinating them😎!
For example😉! For (S) to work properly, it has to be allowed, or, coordinated by the central module (D)👌!
Remember, We put an EEPROM in each vehicle’s component We want protect👌!
The EEPROM in (S) must have the correct details of the truck🤷♂️!
The central module (D) has the exact details that must be in the EEPROM (digital data) inside component (S)! Meaning, if (S) is different, changed,
it will NOT be allowed to work😢!
You’ve seen certain ‘ujinga’ foolishness happens on You (just) replace certain vehicle‘ electronics😢?
Whatever part installed😳; Could be having digital data of a different vehicle,
OR, Doesn’t have any digital data (virgin) and waiting to be programmed with that vehicle’s data🚧!
HAPA UJANJA tu😳!
Using an Example of 👇a Vehicle’s protected this👇!
Assuming😳; O) The original partOLIJINO (O) with original data (O) is damaged😉! Y) The used spareYUZIIDI (Y) has different data (Y) of another car😲!
Remember, every ‘ujanja’ could be playing about with the contents in EEPROM ‘mjinga huyu hapa’😂🤣!
Different vehicles protect different electronics🤐!If You’re not able to access theOLIJINO (O) original part so as to switch data💻!
Manufacturers have online backup for You🩺!Visit their website using a proper tool, as long as the electronics you want adapt is NOT yet blacklisted as stolen🤣😂!
But remember, the central (D) coordinating module has a copy of the original data, so🤪?
HAPA UJANJA tu🍻 Some stupid demonstrations in this useless video👇!
May be whatever is causing You believe MUST do some nonsense to the vehicle, is some minor external problem with the sensors or actuators🤷♂️!
WinOLS ni programu yenye uchawi wa kuwezesha kubadilisha, kurekebisha data iliyomo kwenye ECU.
Ina maana unaeza kutoa/kuzima hizo mifumo zenye usumbufu kwenye gari, zikiwemo IMMOBILISER (kufanya immo off). kutoa DPF, EGR, ADblue, kubadili TURBO zenye umeme, yaaani inafanya kazi nyingi kama ECU tuning, uamuzi ni wako tu🤷♂️!
USB (Universal Serial Bus) ni uchawi kuunganisha vifaa vya elektroniki, na kuviruhusu kuwasiliana, ama, na kusambaziana umeme!
Kama maana ya neno lenyewe, UNIVERSAL, USB ilikusudiwa kuchukua nafasi ya viunganishi vya aina mbali mbali, vilivyokuwepo kwenye kompyuta!SERIAL, kwa mfano, ni kama filamu kubwa, ndefu, iliyotolewa mfululizo, selizi🤪tamsiria, yaani inaonewshwa kwa vipandi nusu nusu, series, lakini mwishoe inakamilika yoote🤣😂! BUS, ni kama basi la abiria, mnakuwa wengi mnaelekea njia hiyo moja!
Vinginevyo, kila mmoja angekuwa anaendesha gari lake, bara bara zinajazana msongamano wa magari megi, ambao ndo waya ama cable nyingi, na ukubwa! USB Type A
USB, type-A, ndiyo msingi wa uchawi wa USB😎!
Type-A inatambulika zaidi kwa umbo lake tambarare, yaani very flat.
Hutoa umeme, pamoja na data. Pin 1: Red (nyekundu) VCC (+5V Power) Pin 2: White (nyeupe) – D- (Data Minus) Pin 3: Green (kijani)- D+ (Data Plus) Pin 4: Black 😉(nyeusi) – GND (Ground)
USB type-Aina viwango mbalimbali,
ikiwa ni pamoja na USB 2.0, USB 3.0, na USB 3.2, nk, kwa kulingana kasi na ufanisi wa kazi.
USB, type-A, inaweza kupatikana katika ukubwa, upana tofauti, Standard, Mini, na Micro! USB,Type B, zaidi ya jinsi inavyoonekana, hakuna kitu kingine chochote cha kupoteza muda wako nacho! In fact, ngoja nirahisishe kila kitu🤷♀️! 0) Ni Type-A ambao tumeona! 1) Ni Type-B 2, 3, 4, 5, nk) Ni miundo mbali mabli za aina hii type-B🤷♀️!
Katika muunganisho wa kawaida wa USB, sii ni kompyuta ndo kusimamia vifaa vingine (kama vile simu, printa, nk)!
Sasa, uchawi wa USB On-The-Go (OTG) ni kuwezesha kifaa chochote kuwa bosi🤠! Pini ya OTG ID, ndo kuwezesha huo uchawi!
Kifaa, ilikiwe BOSI (host) , pin4 yacho, lazima ipate GND ya pin 5🍻!
HAPA UJANJA tu📚!
Type C
Jinsi ilivyotokea, muundo mpya wa USB unakuja kuchukua nafasi ya miundo yote ya awali!
Sasa, hii type-C ilikuja kuchukua nafasi ya yote hayo, akina type B, type A, na kufanya kazi bora na za kina zaidi!Type-C inafanya mambo mengi⚓🔑 Sio kwamba nyaya zote za USB-C zinaundwa sawa; kazi halisi hutegemea ni uchawi gani maalum (kama, USB 3.2, Thunderbolt, DisplayPort Alt Mode, USB PD) kazi ambazo vifaa na kebo zilizounganishwa zimeundwa kusaidia. Unapaswa kuangalia vipimo vya bidhaa au kutafuta nembo za uthibitishaji ili kuhakikisha kebo inakidhi mahitaji yao. Kebo inaweza kutengenezwa (kiujinga, sio ujanja) ili ionekane tu kama kwamba ina miunganisho mingi, lakini ni nyaya chache tu zilizounganishwa📴! sio sahihi, kwa kutazama 🧐tu waya, udhani zote ni sawa😁!
Mtu anaweza kuamua vinginevyo, kutengeneza kebo maalum inayofanya kazi kwenye kifa chake alichotengeneza, yaani waya iwe tofauti na kiwango kinachokubalika.
Unasikia wengine wakisema ni waya zao tu zinazofanya katika mashine zao!
Kumbuka kwamba data hutenganishwa katika njia ya USB, yaani, katika mfululizo🤠.
So, daima kuna kitu kama EEPROM (IC, chip) Driver ama microController, kifaa cha kutafsiri, kuunganisha data yote inayotumwa kupitia USB, ili iwe na maana kwa moduli zingine!
By the way, ukitaka ule ujinga kugundua, upimaji, taka taka yote jinsi vidude mbali mbali kwenye maza bodi, pamoja na jinsi vinafanya kazi, usibonyezeHAPA, but clickhere!
HAPA UJANJA tu🤞
May be whatever is causing You believe MUST do some nonsense to the vehicle, is some minor external problem with the sensors or actuators🤷♂️!
WinOLS ni programu yenye uchawi wa kuwezesha kubadilisha, kurekebisha data iliyomo kwenye ECU.
Ina maana unaeza kutoa/kuzima hizo mifumo zenye usumbufu kwenye gari, zikiwemo IMMOBILISER (kufanya immo off). kutoa DPF, EGR, ADblue, kubadili TURBO zenye umeme, yaaani inafanya kazi nyingi kama ECU tuning, uamuzi ni wako tu🤷♂️!
As BMW’s becoming increasingly more complex with with newer complex, digital control electronics, electrical systems, newer ujanja is always needed to fix, sort out certain ujinga!
This is about BMW Keys (immobilizer systems), and related Control Units (ECU)!
For longer, exorbitant, ujanja aboutkeys, including how to reset (virginize) systems to accept the first key used after being virginized, or how to forever disable or immo off to always accept any keys used! clickhere
We compile ECU PINOUTS for every all BMW ECU’s, Electronic Control Units!
These are BMW’s details of about which pin on the ECU connector, specific function, (e.g., ground, power, sensor input, actuator output) carried by each pin.
These BMW’ diagrams help you identify if a problem is with a sensor, a wiring harness or the ECU itself,
Yes, as You know, the immobilizer or anti-theft system verifies that the key used to turn the engine on is the correct one.
If the key is not the correct one, this system blocks different actions to prevent the car from starting, seen🤔?
The car’s computer will disable, the fuel pump, gears’ transmission, the ignition coil and/or the injectors, and depending on the electronic immobilizer system, it could also block the steering column which will lock the steering wheel.
When this system is activated, a warning light such as👇 will turn on!
This is JUST summarizing random points about BMW keys, for longer extreme details, check ☝☝check hapo juu! All that mambo jambo, transponders, readers’ coils, immu immo, this that box, everything uko☝☝!
(We’re disorganized, and so are these👇summaries) Some useless PDF documents are attached below the page!
ONYO📌
MINI, ROLLS-ROYCE, SOZI, and may be some others We don’t know, have some ‘zigzag’ relationship with BMW!
So, You could find some carry-over technology, seen? BMW’s immobilizer systems, evolve from the original ‘Hakuna Matata’ just Drive Away Protection, through EWS, CAS, to these still evolving modern Frontal Electronics Module (FEM) and Body Domain Controller (BDC). (BMW’s immobilizer systems could be intra-split into several versions of within a version🧐)
NOTE🚨, BMW immobilizer systems can differ by market for the same model, due to varying security regulations and other blaa bla like insurance requirements!
So, the BMW immobilizer versions’ vehicles’ applications can be confusing, just like this statement😂🤣!
For example, these👇 vehicles, S, O, Z, I, all could be looking similar, same brand’s model, BUT… S could be having EWS – 5 designed for the JAMAICA market! O could be having CAS – 0 designed for the GHANA market! Z could be having EWS – 2 designed for the KENYA market! I could be having CAS- 1 designed for the BARBADOS…
So, it’s risky to assume, that, just because Slooks like O, so they have the same BMW’s immobilizer ujinga, seen🤔?
The BDC, FEM, CAS, blaa bla confusing long story, is at the bottom 👇
This is how, the story of BMW immo evolution goes…
Imagine a LOCK box, needing a password to OPEN🤔! X, is a usual key with NO magic! Y, is a password ‘something’! OBC, is a Onboard Computer to validate passwords put in, at Y !
Yes, continue imagining🧐!
In this👇 picture below, …a signal must move from S to I so that the engine can work!
This signal is blocked at O! Only if you input a correct password, the signal can be allowed to continue to Z, eventually to I🤷♀️! Now stop imagining😁,
This is how the BMW engine immobilizer ‘ujanja’ started🤷♀️!
If the authentic owner didn’t want secure their BMW with this password ‘zig zag’, they would deactivate the OBC so that the signal connects straight from, S, O, Z, I 🤷♀️!
If some ‘mjanja’, the unauthentic owner wanted to connect the signal from S, they would just cut, O, off the OBC, to Z, then.. 🤷♀️!
You realize how using ‘HAPA UJANJA tu‘ this BMW would just easily be taken🤷♂️stolen!
The BMW team had to wake up, start a continuous campaign to always update, dilute their ‘ujinga’ with more ‘ujanja’ 😁😜🤣!
BMW started calling their first ‘ujanja’ as EWS, which is, Elektronische WegfahrSperre (System), in their Masai language,
but translates to Electronic Immobilizer System in the jaLUO😎 language! So, with BMW, when it’s mentioned, EWS or EIS, it could be about the same nonsense, seen?
EWS1
Below, You see👇 how it would be so ‘mechanical’ & boring for the authentic owner to start their BMW’s engine? And, …it was very easy for unauthentic owner to just connect O to Z then drive away!
So, BMW started upgrading this ‘ujinga’, beginning with EWS1
This EWS1 consisted;
👇
F) The previous☝ ‘ujinga’ was still maintained, to control relayC, via F, the OBC!
Z) Extra ‘ujanja’ was added, that only using the correct mechanical key, Z,to lock or unlock the BMW door, would push some switch connected to the EWS1 module, B, and so indirectly enable or disable the relay, C, that interrupted the starter circuit.
J)Automatic transmission vehicles could be started only in selector lever position P/N.
A) Because the system’s deactivation happens (mechanically) through the door lock barrels, a ‘mjanja’ just uses force to hack this, B, the EWS1 system 🤷♂️!
EWS1 became ‘ujinga’, so BMW came up with EWS2!
EWS2
EWS2 was to improve or elimate the ‘ujinga’ on EWS1!
ONYO🚨 There could have been many versions of EWS2 that were tried, BUT, in general, this was EWS2‘s nonsense!
👇
F) The previous ‘previous ujinga’ was still maintained, to control relay C, via F, the OBC!
Z) The previous ‘ujinga’, that only using the correct key, Z, to lock or unlock the BMW door, would now indirectly enable or disable some other security function!
J)Automatic transmission vehicles could be started only in selector lever position P/N.
1)A unique transponder chip was put into Z, the key!
E)The engine’s ECU, computer, E, would now also be involved!
2) The Ring antenna at ignition lock, A, would read & write data, 4, from & to key Z’s transponder chip, 1!
3) The Transceiver module for data exchange would translate for EWS module, B, whatever data, 4, from 1, the transponder chip in the key, Z!
Kindly, let me NOT waste my ‘beer time’ explaining what magic happens, from 1 to 2, 3, for 4 to reach B, the EWS module!
B)EWS control module verifies whether data, 4, is from the correct key, Z! 5) The details of the ECU, E, must be known to B! It could be the serial number or some other unique details of the ECU that MUST first be registered, adapted to B, otherwise engine won’t start!
6) Using the serial number registered at 5, the EWS2 module, B, uses this to generate some rolling codes that must be sent and saved in the ECU!
The ECU would later use this code to verify the validity of the EWS2 module that verified the key, before the ECU allows the engine to start!
Long story? 😜😁🤣 maneno mengi?
Again😎, NO, I’m NOT wasting my ‘beer time’ explaining this kind of rolling code nonsense, still ClickHERE for the deep nonsense on how jumping codes do sh*t!
Back to our EWS2 story! This is a summary of what happens in order to start the BMW engine!
👇👇 4) The key immo data, 4, in the transponder chip, 1, is read out via the ring antenna, 2, at the ignition switch, A, into the transceiver module, 3!
3) The transceiver module, 3, translates, cleans, then transfers the key data, 4, via a bidirectional data cable to the EWS2, B!
B) The EWS control unitchecks the correctness of the key data, 4, and only then sends an enable signal to the ECU, E, and the starter, D!
4) After the engine start, the EWS control unit generates new key data (variable rolling code) and sends it back to the transponder chip in the key.
6) The enable code, 6, that is generated by the EWS2 module, using the ISN ama serial number of the ECU, then sent and stored in the ECU!
During the next engine start procedure, the next number sent by the ES2 module MUST (may) be of a counter’s incremented by 1, or matching to some rolling code algorithm, seen🤔? May be X☝ was the previous code,
the current code, Y, could be 1/2 (half) of the previous code, X! The next code Z, could be Y + 2 😁🤪🤪 whatever that confusing rolling code ‘ujinga’!
Continuing with this EWS2 nonsense..
Yes, after the engine start is allowed,
EWS2 module and ECU change or update to a newer code to agree on to use for next engine start, right🤔?
Sasa, imagine a situation when the engine is stalled immediately just after starting🧐!
It could be caused by, like a problem to do with with no fuel, or could be a drunk driver, kids playing with this BMW by turning the key START then OFF, again START then OFF…. again and again niaga again niaga😁😜🤣!
In such situation, You notice that the EWS2 module recognizes the engine start, then increases & generates a newer rolling code counter🤔?
But because the ECU was busy with the engine start procedure (full utilization of the processor ) that the ECU kinda fails to update & store the updated rolling code that the EWS2 module generated!
If this ‘ujinga’ happens for more than 5 starts, that the code the EWS2 sends fails to match to what the ECU expected, the ECU will refuse to start the engine🤷♀️!
In this case, it is necessary to perform EWS/ECU matching via the diagnostic interface.
5) As part of this procedure, 5, the ECU transfers and stores it’s ISN in the EWS control unit. 6) The two counters are also reset to some new coding to agree on next!
7) With the aim of protecting the starter, the ECU transfers the engine speed signal and other parameters to disable the relay, C!
This EWS2 blaa bla is more like the common immobilizer system, BUT, with a rolling code!
Usual components, immobilizer ECU (immo box), Transponder in the key, kama kawa🤷♀️!
EWS 3, and ++
Because there so many (minor) versions’ variations of within EWS3, so to save my ‘beer time’, I may be writing as EWS3++ to mean all other versions of EWS3, seen?
Remember 👇the EWS2 🤔? Sasa, EWS3 👇 has same nonsense like EWS2 ☝!
BUT…
Unlike before☝ with, 3, in EWS2, …the EWS3 👇 no longer has a separate transceiver, 3!
Gateway module, K, was also introduced! The EWS3 now reads in the key data from the transponder chip directly via the ring antenna.
Some major version of EWS3is theEWS3.3 👇
EWS3.3 has a different matching procedures between the EWS and ECU.
The details of the EWS, and some other data of that BMW, would now instead be written to the ECU!6) This ‘engine-start’ enable code contains information on the EWS control unit that is compared with the already programmed information in the ECU.
If the sent data is OK, then ‘Hakuna Matata’ the ECU allows the engine to start!
Note: Just changing, swapping the control unit from another vehicle would no longer be possible.
EWS4
Imagine the EWS3 set up🤔, but with the modules’ EEPROMs, memories biased to keeping the EWS or ECU data, only once, and only one specific BMW’s data can be kept in a specific module!
All being kinda (selfishly) managed by BMW🤷♀️!
Note: Just changing, swapping the control unit from another vehicle is just only possible at midnight, only🧐.
CAS
CAS, means Car Access System!
In summary, imagine all the functions of the, EWS, DWA, and some other Gateway module’s functions, all bundled in the CAS module🤷♂️!
Including, key authentication, immobilizer control, central locking, start/stop button coordination, and etc! There are millions of CAS versions, but all be playing about the same ‘ujinga’, using different components & algorithms!
For example☝, 1Z was the key used in early versions of CAS, then 2Z, 3Z which is even used in the recent FEM nonsense as We shall keep on informing You!
In general, the CAS module performs;
…the Key authentication to verify the identity of the key using encrypted signals before allowing the car to start.
…the Immobilizer activation where it disables the engine if an unauthorized key is detected.
…the Central locking function that manages the locking and unlocking functions of the vehicle.
…the Start/stop button coordination to ensure the seamless operation of the ignition process for BMW’s with a push-button start.
…the Gateway function of being between different data buses, controlling the status of electrical systems, also …communicating with other systems to synchronize vehicle functions and authorize the start sequence.
..and obviously the CAS stores the coding that defines the BMW’s features and functions.
Using this CAS3 setup, for example! So many other systems’ modules attached to the CAS module! Together with the ECU, O, afer the CAS module, A, verifying the validity of the key, K, the CAS module also verifies with the EGS!
EGS is ‘Elektronische GetriebeSteuerung‘ in ‘Masai’ language, which translates to or ‘Electronic Transmission Control‘ (ETC) in jaLUO langauge! ONYO🚨
I used just the EGS for example, but there could be so many other control units that may have to also verify with the CAS module and or engine ECU, before the engine is allowed to start or even moving🤷♂️!
The CAS4 👇 could be having similar nonsense as exampled with CAS3☝ above, but with different modules, and probably with SMART KEYLESS ‘ujanja’!
Could be a different algorithm that now all the associated units, the CAS module and ECU and EGS, all have to verify each other🤷♀️
Alafu, to combat theft, BMW started designing the immobilizer systems using complex, encrypted security codes that are unique to each BMW, and their ‘other coding secrets’ kept on the BMW data servers!
Meaning,
…when programming BMW’s recent keys, whatever tool you’re using must connect to the internetso as to access the BMW’s database, to first be verified then provided with the unique security information needed for the programming.
Otherwise just know that BMW just plays about with different control units for engine’s immobilization🤷♀️!
As We continue, to FEM, BDC, SOZI, and others, if You have useless time to waste, You may want to first watch this 👇 rubbish, boring video, although demonstrating all the BMW nonsense🤪😜🤣
HAPA UJANJA tu😎!
FEM & BDC NONSENSE
FEM is the Front Electronic Module, alafu BDC is the Body Domain Controller, which are both are integrated control to manage recent BMW’s electrical system and body electronics!
To make longer story shorter,
Just like how the CAS module was introduced to combine the functions of several older modules, improving efficiency and security.
The FEM was first used, then the BDC!
The BDC integrates all the functions of the FEM plus additional responsibilities like making sure the beers in the BMW’s fridge keep cold😜😁!
There are many functions of the FEM/BDC system, including,
Being as a central gateway module (ZGM) connecting all of the vehicle’s bus systems (e.g., FlexRay, CAN, LIN) to allow communication between different control units.
Obviously being as a central component of the BMW’s immobilizer system.
As in, to store security and immobilizer data that must match the engine and transmission control units to allow the BMW to start.
That nonsense of Access and Authorization, managing functions related to keyless entry, central locking, and the push-button start.
I swear, I’m tired of writing😢, I will continue badae! Meanwhile, AND kindly, be doing extra research, as if it’s Me to benefit, …manyooko😁😜🤣!
Anyway, You can also do some extra research to realize how FEM BDC system also helps to manage and distribute power to the various electronic components throughout the front of the vehicle, optimizing energy usage. like controlling both interior and exterior lighting, Window and Door Control, Wiper and Wash System, Climate Control, Electrical Mirrors!
May be whatever is causing You believe MUST do some nonsense to the vehicle, is some minor external problem with the sensors or actuators🤷♂️!
WinOLS ni programu yenye uchawi wa kuwezesha kubadilisha, kurekebisha data iliyomo kwenye ECU.
Ina maana unaeza kutoa/kuzima hizo mifumo zenye usumbufu kwenye gari, zikiwemo IMMOBILISER (kufanya immo off). kutoa DPF, EGR, ADblue, kubadili TURBO zenye umeme, yaaani inafanya kazi nyingi kama ECU tuning, uamuzi ni wako tu🤷♂️!